Americans on Everest

Ullman, James Ramsey
Year Published: 

"(readers review) This is the classic account of the massive American team assualt on Mt Everest in 1963. That was in the days when you had to be an elite climber to get invited to Everest, and the acknowledged approach involved seige tactics.

This expedition reached the summit three separate times, twice via the Southeast Ridge route and once by the first-ever ascent of the Western Ridge. This is all detailed in this enormous book of 429 pages.

""Americans on Everest"" is written in the classic adventure style - everything is recorded in detail, accounts of personal conflicts are minimized, and everyone comes out as a hero. There are lists of provisions and equipment at the end. It even adresses the expedition as a bit of a cold war victory. This is a sort of writing that is not practiced nowadays, and it is interesting to read an that account.

This book chronicles the classic first ascent of the Western Ridge route by Tom Hornbein and Willi Unsoeld. That was a stunning first in mountaineering, made even more spectacular as it also became the first traverse of Everest. That is all detailed in this book.

There are other, better pure adventure books out there, but this one is not bad at all."